After cappucinnos at the hotel and paying our bill (which took about 10 minutes because the clerk carefully printed each letter and number), we headed off down the escalators to the train station below. After the escalators ended we still had to walk another mile and a half to the station, but ran into a farmer's market and grabbed a pound of cherries which we ate the rest of the way. We had to wait one hour for the train to Florence so we ate a slice of the local pizza...it's just that the food looks and smells so amazing here that we can't resist!
We traveled from Perugia passing by lovely Lake Trasimeno to Florence where we disembarked and again smelled and saw the food of Italy. I actually made and American decision and got a cappuccino to go (they offered this). Mackenzie grabbed yet another pannini and we boarded the train to Sienna. Even with the caffiene I still slept the majority of the ride. It was a very peaceful time.
The escalator to go up to the hill town of Sienna was the path we chose and then walked about 10 minutes before arriving at a beautiful locked door where we were to stay: Casa di Osio. Before the owner came to let us in, we met a lovely young Vassar graduate and we chatted and found that she was an art history major and Italian major who writes a food blog...her name is Moorea. Her blog is 'ThealmostItalian.com.' We can't wait to see what she writes...since food is as most of you all know our favorite thing (still missing those gourmet meals Jim prepared!)
Casa di Osio on Via dei Motanini is a funky, quaint B&B that is housed on the third floor of an old home. We were shown to our room which had an amazing view overlooking the city. It is a fairytale-like room and we felt like princesses. The small 4 room home is owned by a young family with a 3 year old daugher and a 2 month old boy.
We quickly headed into town to the Duomo and purchased 12 euro tickets to see the church, museum, the Crypt, and the Bissterieo. We only had time for the church and museum, but with the 3 day pass, we would head out on Sunday. The marbled church was one of the loveliest we had seen, yet didn't light any candlee for Jim as the touristy aphmospshere took away the holiness of the moment. We then visitedTorre del Mangia and climbed tiny, dark, marble, winding stairs and arrived on a slender 14th century tower high above the city.. We took so many pictures (selfies included) and one photo I took of Mackenzie showed her surrounded by a circle of light, and we attributed the light to Jim being with us..because of course he is always now surrounded by the true light. We headed back down the 300 steps and visited the museum whiched housed Italian works of art from the 1200's and earlier. Chalices galore and we brought out our Indiana Jones, "Choose wisely!"
And, of course we were famished from all of that art work and the weather was turning nasty so we found 'Cava De' Noveschi' and sat on green velvet benches and ordered a Kir Royal (my first I'd had was with Jim 30 years ago) and a Spritz. Amazing place because without asking and for no charge they brought a little plate full of Italian delights that the chef prepares to his own choosing. Could this night get any better? Well, yes it did because as we sat sipping our drinks and shoving our faces (I mean delicately eating) and one of Jim's most favorite group, Simon and Garfunkel comes through the speakers with "The Sound of Silence". I kid you not...now do you doubt the light surrounding Mackenzie? I know what you are saying, Madeleine, (my oldest daughter) "That's not his favorite S&G song, but guess what?! A few songs later, "I am a Rock, I am an Island" drifted from the speakers. It was truly a peaceful and happy moment. Salute, Jimmy.
We walked through the plaza where the bare-backed horse races are held each year and I spoke with Mackenzie about traveling with her Dad and how people would give him free food or offer him a special wine tasing and the like...he just had that kind of presence, I think people sensed his love of food and people. As I was saying this we looked up and saw "Free wine tasting"; this night was getting better! We were treated to about 8 regional wines and a sherry by Pasqual. We talked to a lovely young couple, Julia and Wilmet, who invited us to go with them outside the city to an organic farm and have dinner. It is a place where they only serve what they produce. (Of course I knew this because I watch Top Chef!) We turned them down, not like me, I know, but I wasnt' ready for small talk and instead Pasqual pointed us to a local restaurant (the size of my kitchen) and we ate salad and pasta with duck. We sat near 2 couples from France and they couldn't stop talking to Mackenzie who used every word of French she had ever learned (albeit the bad ones)
Time to go to bed, so we again walked through the plaza and listened a few minutes to the band that was playing...
Tip of the day: Look for escalators when you arrive at a hilltop city! And, Italians do not put olive oil and balsamic vinegar on their plates to dip their bread although Mackenzie had the French couples trying it!
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